Before you hand over a single dollar for a used car, you need to inspect it. This is the exact 20-point checklist I use on every car before I sell it. Print it out, bring it with you, and check every item.
If even one item fails, you should either negotiate the price down or walk away.
Under the Hood (5 points)
1. Oil condition — Pull the dipstick. Oil should be amber/brown. Black = overdue change. Milky = blown head gasket. Walk away if milky.
2. Coolant — Green or orange. Rusty or brown = neglect. Oil in coolant = head gasket failure.
3. Belts & hoses — Squeeze hoses. They should be firm, not soft or cracked. Belts shouldn't have fraying or cracks.
4. Battery & terminals — Terminals clean, no white/green corrosion. Battery date sticker recent.
5. Leaks — Look under the car for wet spots. Check around oil pan, transmission, radiator.
Body & Exterior (4 points)
6. Panel gaps — Walk around the car. Gaps between panels should be even. Uneven = accident repair.
7. Paint match — Look at the car in sunlight. Different shades on different panels = repainted after damage.
8. Rust — Check wheel wells, door bottoms, rocker panels, undercarriage. Surface rust is OK. Structural rust is not.
9. Tires — Use the penny test (Lincoln's head should be covered by tread). Check for even wear — uneven = alignment or suspension issues.
Interior (3 points)
10. Dashboard lights — Turn key to ON (not start). All warning lights should illuminate, then turn off when engine starts. Staying on = problem.
11. A/C & heat — Turn both on full blast. A/C should get cold in 2 minutes. Heat should get hot. Smells musty? Could be mold in the system.
12. Interior condition — Seats, steering wheel, pedals. Wear should match the mileage. Fresh-looking pedals on a "100k mile car" = odometer rollback.
Test Drive (4 points)
13. Cold start — Start the engine cold. Listen for knocking, ticking, or rough idle. First 30 seconds tell you the most.
14. Transmission — Drive through all gears. Automatics should shift smooth — no jerking, no slipping, no delay. Manuals should engage cleanly.
15. Brakes — Brake from 30 mph. Pedal should feel firm. Vibrating = warped rotors. Grinding = worn pads. Spongy = air in lines.
16. Steering & suspension — Drive over bumps. Listen for clunks or rattles. Steering should be centered — pulling = alignment or tire issue.
Paperwork (4 points)
17. Title check — Must be clean. Salvage/rebuilt = 40-50% less value. Compare VIN on title to VIN on the dashboard.
18. Carfax/VIN report — Run the VIN. Check for accidents, title issues, mileage inconsistencies, number of owners.
19. Maintenance records — Ask for receipts. A seller with oil change receipts cares about the car. No records = gamble.
20. Emissions — In NJ, the car needs to pass emissions. Ask for the last inspection report or get it tested.
Red Flags — Walk Away If You See These
- Milky oil (head gasket blown — $1,500+ repair)
- Seller won't let you test drive
- Seller won't let you bring a mechanic
- Title isn't in the seller's name
- VIN on title doesn't match the car
- Price is way below market value (it's a scam or the car has major issues)
- Seller pressures you to buy today
Print This Checklist
Take this list with you when you go look at any used car in New Jersey. It takes 20-30 minutes to check everything, and it could save you thousands. If you'd rather buy from someone who already did the work — that's what I do.